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Vape safe v2 or Kick?
herbie Offline
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Post: #1
Vape safe v2 or Kick?
Morning all.
I got my first mod on Friday (Pisces-T, it's a beautiful thing!) and having spent the past week reading up on mod safety, I think I'd feel safer with some protection!
Looking at the kick and kick2, the kick looks like it will shut off under load at 3.2v, which as I understand it is going to be better for my IMR batteries than the kick2 (which cuts off at 2.7v)
I'm more concerned about a hard short, so maybe the vapesafe v2 will do for me provided I keep an eye on my battery voltage?
Any thoughts please?
14/10/13 08:03 AM
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jSquared Offline
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Post: #2
Vape safe v2 or Kick?
They do completely different things, to be honest. For straight up protection, you'd probably be better off with the VapeSafe Fuse I'd have thought.

I don't use any kind of protection in my mechs. I've never had an atty develop a hard short spontaneously. As long as you check your coil on a multimeter or an ohm meter after the build or when you do something silly (like drop your mod) you'll be fine.

JJ
14/10/13 08:20 AM
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al666 Offline
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Post: #3
RE: Vape safe v2 or Kick?
The Vapesafe is a fuse, the Kick (or Kick 2) is a regulation device.

If you are only interested in protecting your battery from shorts, the Vapesafe is what you want. If you worry about running the battery too low, don't. You'll soon know when it needs charging from the lack of atty performance.

Bear in mind that the Kicks and to an extent the Vapesafe will make your battery longer, and an 18650 might no longer fit, meaning you need an 18500 which will go flat quicker!

Cheers,

Al.

14/10/13 09:20 AM
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anthropolyte (14/10/13)
anthropolyte Offline
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Post: #4
RE: Vape safe v2 or Kick?
(14/10/13 09:20 AM)al666 Wrote:  The Vapesafe is a fuse, the Kick (or Kick 2) is a regulation device.

If you are only interested in protecting your battery from shorts, the Vapesafe is what you want. If you worry about running the battery too low, don't. You'll soon know when it needs charging from the lack of atty performance.

Bear in mind that the Kicks and to an extent the Vapesafe will make your battery longer, and an 18650 might no longer fit, meaning you need an 18500 which will go flat quicker!

Cheers,

Al.

I can confirm this - you will definitely know when the battery is running low. Li-Ion batteries need to be recharged before they hit about 3.4V ideally, and you'll be swapping the battery over when it hits about 3.7V, because the vapour production will tail off significantly. Go for the fuse if that's all you're worried about.

To be honest, I wouldn't (and don't) bother with either. Most mech mod users don't worry too much about shorts etc, because the majority of them have pretty high-quality atomisers that are unlikely to develop a hard short. Additionally, mech users have good coiling skills in general, so short circuits caused by a rebuild are unlikely. It's all down to how much you trust yourself!
14/10/13 09:33 AM
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herbie Offline
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Post: #5
Vape safe v2 or Kick?
Thanks guys!
My coiling skills have developed well but I'm not 100% confident yet, so I'll go for a Vapesafe2 for now and hopefully I'll feel ok to ditch it in a few weeks.
14/10/13 11:41 AM
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jSquared Offline
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Post: #6
Vape safe v2 or Kick?
(14/10/13 11:41 AM)herbie Wrote:  Thanks guys!
My coiling skills have developed well but I'm not 100% confident yet, so I'll go for a Vapesafe2 for now and hopefully I'll feel ok to ditch it in a few weeks.

Sounds like a good plan to me - and perhaps an approach we should be recommending more often.

JJ
14/10/13 12:00 PM
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anthropolyte Offline
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Post: #7
RE: Vape safe v2 or Kick?
(14/10/13 12:00 PM)jSquared Wrote:  
(14/10/13 11:41 AM)herbie Wrote:  Thanks guys!
My coiling skills have developed well but I'm not 100% confident yet, so I'll go for a Vapesafe2 for now and hopefully I'll feel ok to ditch it in a few weeks.

Sounds like a good plan to me - and perhaps an approach we should be recommending more often.

JJ

It is good advice, but it's not practical in situations where you're using a fixed-length tube. People using fixed 18350 tubes won't be able to use a fuse at all - people using 18650 do have the option of using an 18500, but with a corresponding reduction in battery life. Some telescopes allow for it, not all do. So it's a bit complicated to offer that advice to anyone using a mech.
14/10/13 12:04 PM
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googled Offline
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Post: #8
RE: Vape safe v2 or Kick?
(14/10/13 09:33 AM)anthropolyte Wrote:  To be honest, I wouldn't (and don't) bother with either. Most mech mod users don't worry too much about shorts etc, because the majority of them have pretty high-quality atomisers that are unlikely to develop a hard short. Additionally, mech users have good coiling skills in general, so short circuits caused by a rebuild are unlikely. It's all down to how much you trust yourself!

Wow, where did you read that bollocks? A popped coil no matter how good your "high quality" atomizer is can cause a hard short, not to mention a broken grommet or stray piece of metal sheering off threads.

14/10/13 12:12 PM
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anthropolyte Offline
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Post: #9
RE: Vape safe v2 or Kick?
I didn't "read" anything. I posted what I have deduced from other users and from my own experience. Popped coils will generally only result from a poor build, and stray pieces of metal or damaged o-rings are more likely to occur in poorer quality atomisers with lower build quality. It is of course still a risk - however it's marginal, for me at least.
14/10/13 12:15 PM
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herbie Offline
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Post: #10
Vape safe v2 or Kick?
Thats another reason why I'm loving this Pisces-T, it has a telescopic tube and having been used to using Provaris with a KFL on top, adding a few mm to house a fuse with an 18490 battery isn't going to affect its overall length too drastically.
(14/10/13 12:04 PM)anthropolyte Wrote:  
(14/10/13 12:00 PM)jSquared Wrote:  
(14/10/13 11:41 AM)herbie Wrote:  Thanks guys!
My coiling skills have developed well but I'm not 100% confident yet, so I'll go for a Vapesafe2 for now and hopefully I'll feel ok to ditch it in a few weeks.

Sounds like a good plan to me - and perhaps an approach we should be recommending more often.

JJ

It is good advice, but it's not practical in situations where you're using a fixed-length tube. People using fixed 18350 tubes won't be able to use a fuse at all - people using 18650 do have the option of using an 18500, but with a corresponding reduction in battery life. Some telescopes allow for it, not all do. So it's a bit complicated to offer that advice to anyone using a mech.
14/10/13 12:29 PM
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